Riga

First impressions, the cold Baltic air, and the timeless magic of Latvia

Riga, the capital of Latvia, is the largest city in the Baltic states. It is renowned as the "Capital of Art Nouveau," boasting the world's highest concentration of Jugendstil architecture. Around a third of the buildings in the city center feature this style—a detail that becomes breathtakingly obvious as you stroll along Alberta iela and Elizabetes iela. The intricate facades, adorned with faces, mythical beasts, and floral motifs, will leave you speechless. Though, in the biting cold (-20°C) and snow, your mind may quickly drift toward thoughts of a warm fireplace.

 

Τρίτο Shakedown trip before the polar expedition

 

A must-visit is, of course, the Old Town (Vecrīga), a UNESCO World Heritage Site filled with winding cobblestone streets and architecture straight out of a fairy tale.

Standing proudly in its heart is the House of the Blackheads, easily the most iconic and photographed landmark in Riga. The unusual name traces back to the Brotherhood of the Blackheads, a guild of unmarried foreign merchants active here since the 14th century. Their patron saint was Saint Maurice—a Roman military leader from Egypt who, by tradition, was depicted in iconography as a dark-skinned African.

Saint Μaurice

 

The merchants proudly adopted the head of their Moorish patron as their official crest. However, a cheekier theory suggests the name simply set them apart from the older, married merchants of the Great Guild, who were jokingly called "Greyheads" or "Whiteheads."

 

While the original structure was erected in 1334, the masterpiece you see today is a faithful reconstruction completed in 1999. The historic original was leveled by World War II bombings and subsequently razed during the Soviet era. Today, visitors can step inside to marvel at historical treasures—including a coat of arms of Lübeck representing the city’s Hanseatic League ties—as well as the breathtaking grand ballroom and majestic festive halls.

 

The Riga Cathedral (Riga Dome) is also famous for housing one of the largest pipe organs in the world. St. Peter’s Church is another highlight, offering a panoramic view of the city from its famous steeple.

The Central Market (Centrāltirgus) is not just any market; it is housed in five massive, World War I Zeppelin hangars by the Daugava River, making it one of the largest and liveliest markets in Europe. There, you will find everything from fresh smoked fish to local pickles. It is a place full of flavors you must try. Latvian cuisine is hearty and comforting, featuring dishes like grey peas with bacon—their national dish. To warm up, try Black Balsam, their traditional herbal liqueur. It is incredibly strong and has quite a kick, but in the freezing cold, hot drinks are a must—be sure to try Black Balsam mixed with hot blackcurrant juice (upene).

 

In the summer, the days are endless thanks to the famous "White Nights," but at Christmas, the city turns magical. In fact, Riga is said to be the place where the very first Christmas tree was decorated, back in 1510. Due to its elegance and vibrant cultural scene, Riga is often called the "Paris of the North."

Visiting in February means experiencing the heart of winter, with temperatures dropping below freezing (ranging from -4°C to -10°C, and occasionally plunging below -15°C at night). The city is typically blanketed in snow, creating a stunning white backdrop, but warm, well-insulated winter clothing is essential.

 

This snowy landscape is divided by the Daugava River, which flows through the city and has shaped its history. For Latvians, it is a powerful national symbol known as Likteņupe (the River of Destiny). Originating in Russia, it flows through Belarus and Latvia before emptying into the Gulf of Riga in the Baltic Sea.

 

Despite the cold, February is packed with events, including Supernova (Latvia's national Eurovision selection show), Meteņi (on February 6th, a traditional festival marking the midpoint between winter and spring with costumes and local treats), Balttour (the Baltics' largest travel trade fair at the Ķīpsala Exhibition Centre), and the annual Latvian Book Fair at the end of the month.

 

A visit to Riga is incomplete without marveling at the majestic Riga Cathedral (Dome Church), home to one of the world's largest pipe organs, and St. Peter's Church, which offers an unparalleled panoramic view of the city from its soaring spire.

 

Final Thoughts: Despite its history as a Soviet republic, Riga has completely shed its communist-era skin, transforming into a thoroughly Westernized city with virtually no remnants of its bleak past.

A key highlight is the Freedom Monument, topped by a bronze female figure lifting three golden stars—representing the historical regions of Courland, Vidzeme, and Latgale. Remarkably, the monument survived Soviet occupation; to avoid tearing it down, Soviet authorities cleverly reframed its symbolism, claiming the stars represented the three Baltic Soviet Republics embraced by "Mother Russia."

Riga effortlessly blends medieval romance with a modern, cosmopolitan edge. Unlike many post-Soviet cities, you won't find ugly concrete blocks disrupting the view; any modern architecture is tastefully integrated.

 

 

The local women are tall, elegant, and—let's be honest—absolutely stunning 😂; they possess a genuinely magnetic charm. On top of that, navigating the city is a breeze, as almost everyone speaks flawless English.

 

 

Getting there is easy thanks to airBaltic, the national carrier. While it operates on a low-cost model (meaning strict luggage limits and paying for in-flight extras like water), the travel experience is top-notch. Their Airbus A220-300 aircraft are exceptionally comfortable, offering far better legroom than Aegean and a warmer, friendlier cabin crew than Lufthansa. Best of all, they offer a direct, convenient 3-hour flight from Athens, with easy onward connections to Tallinn and Helsinki. Just one practical tip for your flight: keep an eye out when deplaning so you don't clip your head on the open overhead bins!