Τhe City of Tirana

The Beauty of Berat

Skanderbeg Square

Τhe City of Tirana
Berat, Durres
My Passpost had expired
Tips2Go

The City of Tirana
Tirana has a history dating back to the Illyrian era (the Illyrians being an Indo-European tribe that emerged in the region during the Iron Age, around the 8th century BC). Although the area has been continuously inhabited since antiquity—when it was part of the kingdom of the Taulantians, a major Illyrian tribe of central Albania—the city itself was founded much later, in 1614, by Suleiman Pasha. Today, the city is best known for its unique blend of Ottoman, Italian, and socialist-era architecture..

The Et'hem Mosque is one of the most historical-religious monuments of the city...

...it is an excellent example of 18th century Islamic architecture

Skanderbeg Square (Sheshi Skënderbej) is located in the city center and is considered Tirana's most emblematic meeting point. The square is surrounded by historic buildings, such as the National Opera and Ballet Theater. Completed in 1966 during the Hoxha era, the theater's construction stands as a landmark of the socialist-style architecture that dominated the city. The square is dominated by an imposing equestrian statue of the national hero, Gjergj Kastrioti, widely known as Skanderbeg. Living in the 15th century, he led a heroic resistance against the Ottoman Empire, successfully defending his lands, uniting local Albanian rulers, and delaying the Ottoman expansion into the rest of Europe. His personal emblem, the double-headed eagle on a red background, became the ultimate symbol of Albanian national unity and independence, and is depicted on the country's flag today.

The Pyramid of Tirana is one of the most iconic and controversial buildings in the city. Dominating the center of the Albanian capital, the impressive structure was built in 1988, initially as a museum dedicated to Enver Hoxha, to serve as a grandiose monument of the communist era. After the fall of the Hoxha regime, the building was neglected for years, becoming covered in graffiti and serving as a favorite spot for young people who climbed its sloping sides to slide down. Its rebirth took place in recent years, when the Pyramid underwent a radical renovation, and today it has been transformed into a modern center of technology, education, and culture.

 

Blloku is the most famous and lively neighborhood in Tirana. The name literally means 'The Block' and its history dates back to the communist dictatorship, when it was an area reserved exclusively for the political elite and the regime’s top brass. It was closed off, left off the maps of that era, and ordinary citizens were forbidden to enter. It was also home to the residence of dictator Enver Hoxha.

 

Between 1945 and 1991, the world was divided into two main camps by the Yalta Agreement. However, Albania’s case was unique; it did not belong to either bloc, but rather aligned itself with another: China. This was a time when Mao Zedong and Enver Hoxha found common ground, marching to the exact same ideological beat. In China, the regime was defined by the infamous Cultural Revolution—a period grippingly described in the book Wild Swans: Three Daughters of China. This ideological zeal was somehow transmitted to Hoxha’s Albania, a nation he could never have imagined existing as a capitalist entity stripped of its communist cloak.

Bunk Art: former nuclear shelter from the communist era,
which has been converted into an exhibition space.

The museum is dedicated to the history of the Albanian police...

... and security services during the communist period....

... offering an insightful look at the events of that time

At that time, elites in all communist regimes (whether in Cuba, the USSR, or China) enjoyed private comforts shielded from the eyes of the working class, supposedly to prevent ordinary citizens from being 'contaminated' by bourgeois desires. They lived, in essence, fenced off in their own opulence. In Tirana, this unfolded in Blloku—an area that today has been completely transformed. Now considered the beating heart of the city's entertainment, it is packed with trendy bars, cafes, vibrant nightlife, and restaurants serving both traditional Albanian cuisine and international gastronomy, alongside luxury boutiques like Prada, Hermès, and Louis Vuitton. Today, it stands as one of the most expensive and fashionable districts in the city.

in the basement of the Hoxha villa there is an art space

  

In Blloku there is the former residence of Enver Hoxha (it looks like a villa from the '70s)...

...which now operates as the House of Art. 

A must-see attraction in Tirana is the Dajti Ekspres, a cable car that takes you from the outskirts of the city to the top of Mount Dajti. The impressive aerial route spans approximately 4.5 kilometers, offering panoramic views of the capital and its surrounding landscapes. A round-trip ticket costs 1,500 LEK, and the ride itself takes about 15 minutes. As you glide over lush, dense forests, the cabin makes a dramatic, near-vertical ascent in its final meters, revealing the mountain's rugged, rocky face. Taking the cable car up is highly recommended, while hiking back down the trail is a great option on the return trip, weather permitting.

At an altitude of 1600 meters, the view is excellent, especially on days without humidity, while the West is revealing. At the top there is an area with restaurants, cafes and playgrounds, even mini-golf. It is a popular destination for families and groups who want to escape and seek the relaxation of the moment. You can take walks on the mountain paths and enjoy the scenery. However, today, with a temperature of 40C, no outdoor activity is recommended.

Berat, Durres
Berat is one of the most picturesque and historic cities in Albania, known worldwide as 'the city of a thousand windows'. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008, due to its exceptionally preserved Ottoman architecture and the harmonious coexistence of different religious and cultural communities over the centuries. It is highly worth visiting for its unique architecture and striking location, where it is divided by the Osum River into two historic neighborhoods, Mangalem and Gorica. From afar, the white, two-story houses with their many large windows—built amphitheatrically on the hillsides of both banks—create a stunning visual effect. In fact, some might argue that the city is even more beautiful from a distance than it is up close.

using the local famous furgons

the central place of Berat

Berat Castle Ruins

In the area, you will also find the Castle, a unique Balkan fortress dating back to the 13th century that remains inhabited to this day. Within its walls lies a 'living' village with narrow stone-paved streets, Byzantine churches, and Ottoman mosques. Housed inside the castle, the Onufri Museum (named after the great 16th-century painter) features a fascinating collection of religious icons. Onufri was famous for his use of a vibrant, distinctive red pigment ('Onufri’s red'), the secret recipe for which remains a mystery. At the edge of the castle grounds, there is a bastion that once served as an observation post. You can hike up to the castle on foot—be prepared, as it is a steep climb—and walk back down via a scenic path along the hillside.

Osum River

the old bridge

Muzaka is not the greek musakas but a prominent, historical Albanian
noble family that ruled vast territories in southern Albania
during the Late Middle Ages

a part from the new bridge

In the background stands Mount Shpirag, world-famous for the intense,
parallel vertical grooves (ravines) running along its entire slope,
resembling massive lines or 'scars' on the bare rock

Durrës is a major city and port on Albania's Adriatic coast. It holds immense historical significance as one of the oldest and most strategically vital colonies in the region. Founded by Greek colonists from Corinth and Corfu in 627 BC under the name Epidamnos, its prime location allowed it to serve as the western terminus of the famous Via Egnatia, which connected Durrës with Constantinople during the Roman and Byzantine eras.

Miami beach?

 

The city’s most iconic monument is the Roman Amphitheater (which I unfortunately missed due to a heatwave). It is considered the largest ever discovered in the Balkans and is highly impressive, built directly into the hillside to create a truly dramatic, tiered design.

 

Durrës features beautiful beaches lined with modern high-rises that give off a Miami-esque vibe. It is a highly popular resort for Tirana residents and tourists alike, who flock here during the summer heat to enjoy a perfect mix of historical sightseeing and seaside relaxation. In fact, combining a visit to Berat with a stop in Durrës on the way back is an excellent option for a day trip from Tirana.

My passport had expired
Who would have thought that the very last stamp on this 'legendary' passport—filled with entry marks from remote regions and countries that few people will ever set foot in—would be Tirana, Albania? So, let’s take one final look back together:

Machu Picchu

Antartida, Uschuaia, Mongolia

Drake, South Patagonia

China, Vietnam, Tristan da Cunha

Australia, Saint Helena

South Pole, Japan, Chile, Capo Verde

Cambodia, USA

Tips2Go

• Getting to the City & General Vibe
  
  • Airport Transit: The LUNA bus from the airport to the city center takes 30–60 minutes, depending on traffic, and costs 400 LEK (approximately €4).
  • How Long to Stay: Tirana is a decent European city, perfect for a 1-to-2-day visit. Any longer is probably unnecessary unless you plan to use it as a base to visit Saranda, Gjirokastër or Berat.
• Money, Cards & Cost of Living
  
  • Prices: The cost of living is cheaper than in Greece, though prices in the city center are quite close to Greek standards.
  • Currency & Cards: Euros are widely accepted without any issues, but you will absolutely need local currency (LEK) for buses and local transport. Credit cards are mostly accepted in the city center; outside of it, cash is king (preferably LEK).
  • Exchange & ATMs: It is highly recommended to exchange money only at local exchange offices. Avoid withdrawing cash from ATMs, as they charge high commission fees of 700–900 LEK (€7–€9).
  • Accommodation: Hotels are relatively expensive considering the local standard of living.
• Getting Around (Local Transport) 
  
  • City Buses: Local buses have a ticket collector on board, and a ticket costs between 30 and 50 LEK (about €0.30–€0.50).
  • Intercity Travel: To travel to the countryside, you can take 20-seater minibuses or vans—locally known as furgons (similar to Spanish colectivos). They depart from the South and North Bus Terminal only when they are completely full. While they are cheap (about €6–€8 for long distances), the ride is quite cramped. Renting a car is a much better option.
  • Bus Routes: That said, there are regular, comfortable coach buses for specific routes, such as Durrës to Tirana, which cost only €2.