Davalista Pass (🇬🇧)

The Most Alpine Route of Pindus

This pass is located in the northwestern part of the Tymfi mountain complex, near Dragonlake and above Stomio Monastery. It is a wet, rocky pass (a gorge) carved by the waters of Tsoumani's Xerolakka as they flow into the Aoos, that magnificent river traversing almost the entire northern Pindus.

9-hour trek from Konitsa to Dragonlake and the refuge

 

Greek version (🇬🇷)

The Bridge of Konitsa & Stomio Monastery
The Davalista pass
Dragonlake & Refuge

 

Approaching Konitsa: Tsouka Koula

Suleiman the Magnificent Mosque

The name Davalista appears to be of Slavic origin, as the ending -lista is typically Slavic, and the region of Epirus abounds in Slavic toponyms. However, I was unable to dig deeper into its exact etymology.

The famous stone bridge...

...has a height of 20m and a width of 36m

The route starts from the stone Bridge of Konitsa (approx. elevation 480m), passes through Stomio Monastery (elev. 680m), and literally climbs the slope up to the Laka of Tsoumani (elev. 1750m) before ending at Dragonlake at an altitude of 2050m. Over the course of 7 hours and 40 minutes, you conquer a total elevation gain of 1570m.

Aoos river for kayaking and rafting

nice path only for 200 m

This route is not recommended for beginners or those without climbing experience. Although it lacks technical difficulties, it requires strong mountaineering stamina (due to the steep elevation gain), knowledge of torrent crossings (during rainy periods), and extreme caution regarding falling rocks from the steep cliffs. Descending this trail is also discouraged, especially for anyone with knee problems.

The Bridge of Konitsa and the Stomio Monastery

The Epirots are perhaps the most skilled stonemasons, renowned for their masterfully crafted bridges that have stood the test of time—though this unfortunately did not hold true for the Plaka Bridge on the Arachthos, which was brought down by unbelievable human indifference. Nevertheless, the surviving bridges stand proudly in their strength, serving as true jewels of the region. Among them, the Bridge of Konitsa stands out as the highest single-arch bridge in the Balkans, built around 1870 to span the two banks of the Aoos, a raging river almost all year round.

 

A thorough quadriceps warm-up takes place all the way to Stomio Monastery. The trail is essentially a forest road following the Aoos River, gradually gaining about 200 meters of elevation over 1 hour and 40 minutes. Our first stop is at the monastery.

The Monastery from an altitude of 1500m

Legend has it that the monastery was founded in 1442 on the opposite bank of the river (at the foothills of Trapezitsa mount) in an area called "Paliomonastiro" (Old Monastery) to mark its previous location. Later, in 1774, Abbot Konstantinos moved it to its present site. Although it is a male monastery featuring 11 newly built cells with auxiliary spaces and a small cross-in-square domed catholicon, only two monks live here, opening the outer gate around noon.

 

Soon we will vanish into the forest....

Legend has it that the monastery was founded in 1442 on the opposite bank of the river (at the foothills of Trapezitsa) in an area called "Paliomonastiro" (Old Monastery) to mark its previous location. Later, in 1774, Abbot Konstantinos moved it to its present site. Although it is a male monastery featuring 11 newly built cells with auxiliary spaces and a small cross-in-square domed catholicon, only two monks live here, opening the outer gate around noon.

 

The Davalista Pass

The actual ascent toward Dragonlake and the Davalista Pass starts right from the courtyard of the monastery. Even from the courtyard, we gaze up at the tips of the slopes rising breathtakingly above our heads, towering a thousand meters or more. The relentless uphill path winds through ancient trees such as beeches, firs, and maples, as well as steep couloirs descending from above that retain patches of snow deep into the heart of summer.

Glade at 1466m with a magnificent view of the Monastery and the Aoos

 

At least 2 hours of strenuous climbing (with a 35-45% gradient) are required to reach the first glade (1466m), where there is a stone building and, at its edge, a view toward the bridge of Konitsa, the monastery, and the Aoos River. We pause to enjoy the view during the first sunny weekend of summer!

The small Davalista. A dangerous pass

Raging couloir before Davalista.

 This picture maybe show where the accident involving the unfortunate policeman happened.

 

The forest thins out, and the landscape turns distinctly alpine. A short descent leads us along a path to the small Davalista, giving us our first taste of a narrow passage through a raging torrent-couloir-scree with wild intentions during rainy periods. Legend has it that an enormous avalanche started from here a few years ago and filled the Aoos with snow for several days.

 

 

We constantly follow the contours of the mountain, and in 30 minutes, we approach sheer cliffs that tower vertically before us, threatening us with falling rocks. Extreme caution is required here. I read online that this area features climbing routes with a VI+ difficulty grade. If we could climb to the top, we would catch a glimpse of Dragonlake, which lies just on the other side.

breathtaking vertical slopes

The begging of the pass

 

Continuing on, we reach the actual Davalista Pass—a wild, rocky couloir through which the plateau's waters (the Xerolakka of Tsoumani) pour into the Aoos River. Usually, at this time of year, there is very little water, and crossing to the other bank is easy. This year, however, due to the rains, the couloir is rushing with water, making the crossing difficult and dangerous.

The real Davalista

Crossing the river

 

We take off our boots and cross, one by one, through the icy water. Our anxiety and adrenaline make us barely notice how cold it is, and instead, it acts like a soothing massage for our strained calves.

looking upwards...

 

..and downwards

 

From here, a second ascent begins along a rudimentary, rocky trail. Turning back, framed by the narrow channel of the rocks (rising like blinkers), we can only see the 1466m glade. We are at an altitude of around 1600 meters and need another 150m of climbing to level out onto the lush green basin of Tsoumani, full of small ponds and streams that remind us of the famous Verliga (a famous alpine plateau at an altitude of 2050 meters on Mount Lakmos (Peristeri) in the Pindus range of Greece, serving as the primary source springs for the Achelous river).

rocky ascent of the last 150m

another view downwards

 

We have no time to dwell on our adventure, but now, while writing this, I admire the person who carved out this wonderful (yet challenging) pass. Although we are carrying 12-kilogram backpacks, we haven't lost our sense of humor. Andreas, Harris, Elena, and Roula, along with myself, form an amazing team for such excursions. With two doctors in the group, you have nothing to fear. Roula, as a philologist, recounts the story of some mountaineers from Thessaloniki who, about 35 years ago, decided to build a hut up here to shelter their dreams... The story reminds me of Papantoniou's "The High Mountains", where a group of children decided... but let's hear it directly from her: ..Inside an untouched, pristine environment, far from the laws and rules imposed upon us, we decided to build a hut with our own hands, using materials from the forest and without any mechanical assistance. The idea of construction was alluring, but its realization felt transcendental amidst the adversities of this rugged region. The power of will and the joy of creation were the driving force behind the endeavor, and the ultimate satisfaction was seeing the dream realized...

Tsoumani Plateau heading towards Dragonlake and the Refuge

Dragonlake and Astraka refuse

These are familiar places on the plateau, offering many alternative routes. To the left, we can climb to Dragonlake (2050m); to the right, toward the Refuge; and straight ahead, to the peak of Gamila. We prefer the first option, where we encounter this alpine lake perched on the edge of the Aoos ravine at an altitude of 2050m. Its location is particularly striking, and the landscape mirrored in its calm waters is truly unique.

fog at Dragonlake

  

Against the backdrop of Ploskos

The lake's snow patch as a trademark

It has permanent water and is uniquely characterized by alpine newts (Triturus alpestris), a rare species of amphibian resembling a small dragon. These tiny creatures live in the cold waters of the lake, inviting us to wander into legends surrounding their existence. Some theories even suggest that the lake is bottomless and acts as communicating vessels with the Alps.

 

 

We all share pretty much the same thought... if only time wouldn't fly... I wish we could stay a little longer. But the sun is dipping toward the west, and dark clouds are gathering from the southwest. It's time to pack up. Heading toward the refuge, we pass through Xerolakka, a lake formed by rainwater on the plateau. Located at an altitude of 1750m, it offers a stunning sight, enhanced by the surrounding fauna (wild horses) and flora.

The fauna of Xerolakka

The flora of Xerolakka

 

Xerolakka (dry hollow) does not have permanent water, only during rainy periods, and usually dries up in the summer. Soon, after a 9-hour trek, we will reach the refuge, where Alexandra and Giorgos, the managers, are waiting for us. It is time for a shot of tsipouro.

Astraka at altitude 2332m

The Xerolakka's Tsoumani full of water

 

The Astraka Refuge sits on the col of a mountain complex formed by Astraka (elev. 2436m) on one side and Lapato (elev. 2251m) on the other. Located at an altitude of 1950m, it offers views of Xerolakka, the trail to Dragonlake, Ploskos, Papigo, and even Aristi. It is the second most visited refuge, after Zolotas on Olympus, and features ample sleeping space, two dining rooms, and bathrooms with cold water only. You can camp on the opposite hill or in the refuge courtyard for a fee. Staying at the refuge costs 13 euros. It has no Wi-Fi, and mobile network strength depends on where you stand. It has a large veranda with wooden benches and solar panels. The kitchen is fully equipped, offering meals, salads, desserts, coffee, and hot chocolate, and you can also fill your water bottle. Supplies are transported by horses, which is why the classic trail to Papigo is usually damaged.