From the Trails of Saos to the "Vathres" of Ultimate Relaxation
It
was my first visit. Spellbound by the space around me, framed in magnificent Doric proportions, and utterly overwhelmed by its history—a 22-year-old with long hair, a beard, and oversized round glasses that instantly gave away my era—I was walking up the marble Daru staircase. Right in front of me stood an ethereal female figure. Her presence struck me so deeply that I didn’t even register that she had no head or arms—she had only wings. It was the 'Winged Victory of Samothrace', who for nearly 140 years now has been residing in the Louvre, holding onto the hope of one day reuniting with her 'sisters' back home in Samothrace.
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| The Winged Victory of Samothrace at the Louvre Museum |
Alexandroupolis And Evros Delta
Crossing to Samothrace: From Therma to the Vathra of Paradise
Exploring Fonias: The 'Killer' Stream And Its Natural Pools
Gria Vathra or an old lady pool
Conquering Mount Saos: Samothrace's Chaotic Peak
Chora, the Capital of the Island
Panagia Krimniotissa Chapel And Pachia Ammos Beach
The Sanctuary of the Great Gods: Winged Victory & Ancient Mysteries
Tips2Go, Acknowledgments
myVideo(Samothrace)
Alexandroupolis And Evros Delta
My journey to Alexandroupoli—the land of the Cicones, the Thracian tribe Odysseus and his men clashed with on their way back from Troy—began aboard a twin-engine plane of the now-defunct Olympic Airways. Not that the other passengers cared much about the history; most were wedding guests, fiercely debating whether the groom would actually show up (he was on a different flight). I tried to eavesdrop on what was causing his excruciating delay—because, let’s be honest, putting a wedding together is just as painful 😂😂 as giving birth—but I didn't manage to catch the gossip. In the end, whether the groom made it or not, I'm sure the guests had the time of their lives; Thrace has this rare way of being deeply mysterious and utterly charming all at once 🤪🙃.
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Anatasis Delta features a complex composition of interconnected,
vibrant red figures representing athletes or dancers in a state of upward
movement or ascent.
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This border city, sitting at the furthest reach from the capital, left a surprisingly beautiful impression on me. Wide avenues lined with lively cafes and vibrant crowds; headscarves elegantly framing the faces of Turkish tourists exploring the city; locals jogging along the coastal bike path; lush urban parks and live concerts featuring two fascinating traditional dances: The Baidouska—a war dance whose rhythmic steps simulate tactical warfare, complete with intimidating shouts that confirm its martial origins—and the Zonaradikos, a 'snaking' dance where dancers hold onto each other's belts. It’s nicknamed koulouriastos ('coiled') because, as the momentum builds, the lead dancer winds the human chain into a tight spiral until the last person in line unwinds it back out. A visually stunning spectacle to witness! Afterward, we headed out to grab a bite at Loukoulos, a seaside tavern with the dramatic silhouette of Samothrace in the background. Incredible food for next to nothing—just like everywhere in Thrace.
They treated us to retseli, a sweet preserve that sits somewhere between a traditional spoon sweet and a rich jam. Originating from Asia Minor, it holds a deeply rooted place in Pontic culinary traditions. As is often the case in these regions, summer brings an abundance of fruit, prompting locals to invent clever ways to preserve the harvest for the leaner months of autumn and winter. That is how retseli was born, alongside an array of jams and spoon sweets—delicacies that delight the senses, soothe grief, and heighten love, if I may borrow from Molière, that great devotee of romance and happiness.
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| Alexandroupolis by night |
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| The Lighthouse, symbol of the city |
Back in the old days, a Muslim ascetic lived under a tree on the beach. When he passed away, he was buried at that exact spot. Whenever locals spoke of the area, they referred to it as the 'Ascetic’s Tree'—or Dede Ağaç in Turkish (Dedeagatch, or in its Hellenized form, Dedeagatsion). That was Alexandroupoli’s name until 1920, when Western Thrace was integrated into Greece. The city was officially renamed in 1921 to honor King Alexander I—who, as the story goes 😡, died in October 1920 at just 27 years old, after being bitten by a monkey.
The entire history of the city comes alive at the Historical Museum of Alexandroupoli—and it is well worth the €3 ticket. From the heritage of the Pindus Sarakatsani (who scattered across the Balkans during Ottoman persecution) to the landmark 1871 railway project connecting the city with Thessaloniki and Niš; from the iconic 1880 Lighthouse guarding the harbor to historic architectural gems like the Zafeirios Pedagogical Academy (1928) and the Pasaliki (1909), the former governor's residence—it’s all beautifully displayed under one roof.
By the 1920s, the city was booming economically and industrially, housing shipping agencies and consular offices for the Great Powers (as well as Greece). An Allied military airfield, built around 1920, was later upgraded by the German army in the 1940s and fully modernized in 1955—and since 2000, it has been handling international flights. Fast forward to today, and the Americans have arrived, transforming the area into a major naval hub often dubbed the 'Souda bay’ of the North. (Note: Souda Bay in Crete, Greece, is the largest and most critical U.S. and NATO military hub in the Eastern Mediterranean).
Here lies the famous Evros Delta, where the river meets the sea to form a striking triangular estuary. Spanning a vast 200,000 square kilometers along the natural border between Greece and Turkey, this breathtaking region is a crucial haven for migratory birds. It was designated a Wetland of International Importance under the Ramsar Convention in 1971 and later protected as part of the Natura 2000 network.
All this unfolds at the mouth of the Evros River—a majestic 530-kilometer waterway that rises in the Rila Mountains of western Bulgaria and winds its way through Eastern Rumelia. Here, the river creates a mosaic of lakes, lagoons, and islets, giving rise to a unique microclimate with lush vegetation, dense reedbeds, and grassy meadows. This is the Evros Delta’s greatest gift to nature: providing a safe sanctuary and wintering ground for around 300 different bird species on their migratory journeys.
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| looking for the birds (Hitchcock's?) |
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Navigating the labyrinthine reed beds of the Evros Delta
is like stepping into a vast, shifting labyrinth where land
and water blur into a single, untamed wilderness.
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STOP sign... essential for birds with right-of-way 😋
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This is where birds migrating from Northern Europe and Russia pause to rest before continuing their long journey toward the warmer climes of Africa. And this is where we stopped, too. We glided through the narrow, reedy water channels, eagerly trying to catch pelicans and cormorants on camera... though, sadly, our efforts were in vain, as it wasn't their breeding season!
Crossing to Samothrace: From Therma to the Vathra of Paradise
Like modern-day Argonauts or well-meaning Aegean pirates, we crossed the strait separating the island from mainland Greece. The ferry was packed with young travelers—mostly alternative souls adorned with meaningful tattoos: "I gotta get better at being me," "a heart’s a heavy burden," and "and here you are living despite it all." But the one that truly caught my eye was: "When was the last time you did something for the first time?" Even though I’ve accumulated plenty of 'firsts' in my life, that question hit home. It felt like a subtle wink from the universe, telling me: you're about to experience Samothrace as if it were your very first time... And honestly? That's exactly what happened.
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| our routes |
Like modern-day Argonauts or Aegean Pirates (but with good intentions), we crossed the strait connecting the island to mainland Greece. The ferry was packed with young people—most of them alternative types with meaningful tattoos on their bodies displaying characteristic phrases like "I gotta get better at being me," "a heart’s a heavy burden," and "and here you are living despite it all." But the one that stood out to me was "when was the last time you did something for the first time?"... because, even though I have done many things for the first time in my life, this touched me—as if it were winking at me and saying... you’re going to experience Samothrace as if it were your very first time... and indeed, that’s exactly what happened!
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| Approaching the magic mountain (Thomas Mann’s?) |
We disembarked at Kamariotissa, on the western tip of the island. Standing on the shore and gazing out across the Aegean toward the west, I could just make out Mount Athos roughly 75 nautical miles away, looking as imposing as the last time I climbed it. Looming directly behind me was its 'twin' peak, Mount Saos—equally majestic, a natural energizer for restless souls, yet deeply intoxicating for mountain climbers. Like a siren’s song, it beckons you in, though one wrong step along its rugged, rocky ledges could easily mean plummeting to your doom.
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Stepping off the ferry into the harbor of Kamariotissa
brings an immediate shift in pace
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The port is known as a lively hub, where the island’s summer nightlife converges. But we didn't come here for the usual party scene. We came searching for something alternative—a chance to slow down, disconnect, and embrace a simpler, more authentic pace of life. My friends nudge me, breaking my train of thought as if to say: "Snap out of it, we’re heading to Therma! Where are you drifting off to?" 😆
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| What lovely flyers; reminded me of my student days on the University walls |
The village of Therma sits about 12 kilometers from Chora. While it's locally famous for its hot sulfur springs (a detail most travelers gloss over), its true claim to fame is as the starting point for the trek up Mount Saos. It's also where the trail leads to Gria Vathra—a breathtaking natural paradise where mountain streams carve out crystal-clear rock pools. Add to that Samothrace’s two municipal campsites, and the options are endless... Where do I even begin?
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| Therma village, a Cafe in the morning hours... |
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| ... and at night... |
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| ...walking to Saoki beach... |
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μέχρι το πρωί, οι πλανόδιοι απλώνουν την πραμάτεια τους
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| ... until morning, street vendors spread out their wares |
As soon as we arrived in Therma, we felt ourselves slipping instantly into the island's slow-paced rhythm. In the central square—though calling it just a 'village square' hardly does it justice—the local cafe was filled with people thoroughly chilled out, speaking in quiet hushed tones (our noisy group was definitely disrupting the peace!). Meanwhile, artisan vendors were quietly setting up their stalls of handmade trinkets and crafts, patiently waiting for dusk to bring out the evening crowds.
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| The thermal baths, which unfortunately were closed |
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| Extravagance doesn't suit Samothrace... I think so |
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| at Saoki beach... |
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| ...in the role of DJ |
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| morning lounging |
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| nightly ...patrols |
In our room at Hotel Orfeas, I stayed with my friend and fellow mountaineer Michalis—a true Cretan—with whom I was hanging out. During a few moments of seclusion at an evening banquet, our conversation drifted into otherworldly realms. It didn't take much effort; the environment pushes you to express yourself, to engage in hidden conversations, and to reveal yourself. It feels like participating in an initiation ritual on the island of ancient mysteries—a kind of initiation that happens without you consciously realizing it.
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the sounds of kirtan music: floating in the icy, crystal-clear
emerald water of a vathra is already an otherworldly experience |
By the time I discovered the natural pools (vathres) right next to our hotel, days had already passed. I would leave early in the morning while the others were still sleeping, and within ten minutes, I was at the first pool. Its name: Vathra of Paradise—literally and truly. My body was reflected in its calm waters, and with a single splash, I overflowed with freshness and bliss. In this solitary setting, perhaps nymphs emerging from the depths wander about to keep mortals company... Soon, two people arrived with their Indian tablas and began singing kirtan—that vibrant music that floods the space with notes of harmony and joy.
Exploring Fonias: The 'Killer' Stream And Its Natural Pools
If you check the relief map from Anavasis, you'll see that the island is full of streams that carry running water even in late summer. This continuous flow of water, combined with the rocky terrain, naturally forms stream pools—the vathres. Nature lovers walk the trails and scramble over rocks to discover new vathres with impressive scenery (steep cliffs and waterfalls) where they can swim, or even spend the night.
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| RIP for the guy of Patras |
Fonias Stream is the most famous stream, and its name "The Killer" is tied to legends of people lost in its raging waters—and even to a deadly ambush set by the brothers of a princess who dared to fall in love with a local shepherd instead of, say, a marquis from Brittany to intermarry into the lineage of François-René de Chateaubriand.
A few kilometers from the village of Therma (quite a stretch on foot), we spot the sign warning us that Fonias’ paradise begins here. The first vathra of Fonias is easily accessible, which is why it often gets crowded. For those seeking naturism—or a more "secluded" experience, to put it elegantly—staying here isn't ideal; they should push further up. With a bit of scrambling, we climb up to the second pool, where, from the first ledge on the left, we capture a photo of the impressive waterfall that remains hidden from below. |
| 'Fonias' translates literally to "Killer/Murderer" in Greek |
The uphill trek to the second pool is obvious and not too demanding. It takes about 20 minutes to reach the emerald waters of this natural pool, which is the largest in the area.
As you climb higher, you free yourself from thoughts... and clothes. You reach the third pool in about 45–50 minutes. At last, you have arrived at absolute Zen. The main waterfall towers at around 30–35 meters high, accompanied by a smaller 5-meter drop. Smooth rocks invite you to lounge, and, of course, embrace naturism... Nymphs lie in wait to keep you company if the mood strikes—both visible and invisible, they surround you.
The next day, we decided to head to the Springs of Fonias. Here, the saying holds true: "When fatigue exceeds willpower and enthusiasm, listen to your heart. It will guide you where your feet dare not go..." and so it proved to be. The route has an elevation gain of around 800 meters, takes about 4 hours, and involves negotiating endless rolling hills and steep ridges until you reach the springs. There isn't a single tree for shade; the trail is brutal. You have to stay focused on the red trail markers and not let yourself be lulled by the environmental nirvana into getting lost—like the two young women we encountered, who were shouting ...We're lost, help us!...
We finally reach a spot where the water carves out idyllic pools, creating the ultimate setting for a refreshing dip. We soon realize, however, that the actual springs lie another 800 meters higher. A small group decides to press on, while the rest of us stay behind, fully content with the trek.
We press on off-trail, cutting through dense ferns and rocky scrambles, bypassing beautiful yet inaccessible gorges that cradle small, natural pools. With my GoPro, I capture their underwater depths, revealing exquisite gradations of emerald green and deep blue.
We approach the rock walls, suspecting the springs are somewhere right here—and we aren't wrong. Water gushes directly from the rocks, each spring giving birth to its own stream. The ancients knew exactly what they were doing when they performed their rituals here; water, as a purifier, and stone, as a symbol of eternal life, served as the essential initiation tools for any sacred rite.
During a break, I recalled the words of Henry Miller—the famous American author of Tropic of Capricorn and Tropic of Cancer—who wrote in his preface to A Very Beautiful Stone: "It is not only love, death, society, man's achievements, and his anxieties for which tons of ink are consumed. There are also rocks in our lives, pebbles, precious and semi-precious stones that overwhelm us in abundance. Inexhaustible nature remains silent as long as we do not ask it to speak to us...
With a single touch of the rock, I wished for my entire Being to be flooded with energy. We begin our return trek along a different trail—just as arduous as the one we took in the morning. Shortly before reaching the cell towers and the road leading to the ruined refuge (abandoned for reasons unknown), we bump into two Special Anti-Terrorist Unit (EKAM) officers searching for the two missing girls! We share a few details with them and push on.
We reach the antennas and walk up to the refuge. It’s getting late, so we decide not to push any further, as we have other visits planned for the day. We take the dirt road down to the village of Ano Meria, where our bus is waiting. Along the way, the fire truck catches up with us, having found and picked up the "lost" girls from this morning. I suggest riding along with them—"I can't stand walking on this dirt road..." was my official excuse! I climb in and sit next to 22-year-old Myrto from Athens, and we start chatting... What else... Drawing on my endless wisdom 😎, I comfort the exhausted girls, reassuring them that the ordeal is over. I promise to intervene with the president of Aegean Airlines to secure them new tickets since they missed their flight, call the mayor to ensure they get food and shelter, and that, in short, I am entirely at their service for whatever they need. "The lengths a man will go to seem noble..." a friend of mine would have muttered had he been sitting across from me, while secretly thinking something else entirely 😂😂.
Gria Vathra or an old lady pool
Gria Vathra ("Gria" means "old lady" in Greek) is widely considered the most famous and easily accessible series of rock pools on the island. Located just a 20-minute walk from Therma, the trail weaves through lush ferns and under the shade of majestic plane trees. Pro Tip for the Hike: It’s best to head straight to the fourth pool via the main trail, as the rocky wall between the third and fourth pools is notoriously difficult to scale. From there, the climb to the fifth and sixth pools continues through a narrow rock passage equipped with iron steps. As you approach the seventh pool, keep a close eye on the red trail markers, as some sections are exposed with sharp drops. The terrain leading to the eighth and final ninth pool turns rocky but remains manageable—until massive boulders block any further ascent. It is estimated that the gorge houses around 62 pools in total—some intimate, others grand, but all strikingly colorful and of unmatched natural beauty.
Travel Tip: Make sure to stick to the marked trail to avoid dead ends, and definitely wear sturdy, non-slip shoes—leave the flip-flops back at the hotel, my friend!
What travelers say: "A wonderful experience that everyone should definitely try! Sneakers are an absolute must—the trail is quite demanding and requires caution in several spots. I'm no professional climber, yet I managed to reach the very top pool, so it's definitely doable. Pro tip: bring plenty of water and, seriously, wear proper sneakers! You’ll get tired, but it is so worth it..."
A Tale of Adventure: Chrysa’s Journey to Gria Vathra. Beyond the practical advice, Samothrace is an island of stories. I stumbled upon a captivating narrative online by Greek actress Chrysa Kottarakou, where she vividly describes her adventure to Gria Vathra to her friend Eleni. Her recount captures the wild, almost mystical spirit of the hike so perfectly that I couldn't resist sharing a quick summary here (hoping she’ll forgive the feature!).
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| Vathra nr.7 |
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| Vathra nr.9 |
...Joining a group led by an experienced climber, she set off toward the high springs of Gria Vathra—unprepared for just how profoundly the mountain would test them. Deep inside the gorge, without specialized equipment, fate intervened: a French hiker in their group lost his footing and fell. In an instant, breath caught in throats and frozen terror took over. After a tense, carefully executed rescue, the group split. Some guided the injured hiker back down to safety, while Chrysa and a few others made the quiet decision to push forward. What followed was a journey completed in reflective silence. Having stood face-to-face with the fragility of life, the remaining hikers moved in harmony with each other, the mountain, and the rushing river. Reaching the high springs wasn't just a physical milestone—it became a sacred rite of passage. For Chrysa, that harrowing moment transformed her relationship with nature forever. The Frenchman’s fall became the exact moment Samothrace revealed its true essence: direct, stripped bare, and undeniably powerful. Today, she approaches every mountain not to conquer it, but to listen, respect its force, and maintain a quiet dialogue between nature and her inner self.
Conquering Mount Saos: Samothrace's Chaotic Peak
Saos—sounding strikingly like Chaos—and that comparison is by no means an exaggeration. Rising to 1,614 meters, Mount Saos might not match the soaring heights of the Pindus range, but it packs the unforgiving gradient of Mount Olympus' Gomarostalo ridge and the technical rocky scrambles of Corsica's GR20. Following the high section of the European E6 trail, this trek serves up the full adrenaline package: punishing uphill grinds, dizzying inclines, gale-force mountain winds, and exposed scrambles. It’s precisely this wild intensity that makes ascending Fengari (Moon—the mountain’s evocative second name) every bit as formidable—and rewarding—as it sounds!
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| ascent to Mount Saos |
The craggy, windswept terrain leaves no middle ground: hikers must transform into true rock scramblers to conquer the peak and earn the breathtaking panoramic view from the summit—the very same vantage point where Poseidon, God of the Sea, sat enthroned to watch the legendary battles of the Trojan War unfold.
The trail begins in Therma, following a dusty dirt track past the local radio antennas before heading steadily uphill. This initial stretch is easily the most grueling and monotonous section of the entire hike. Covering a total distance of 8 kilometers with roughly 6 hours of trek time, the path maintains a unrelenting 25–30% incline. As you push upward through dense patches of green ferns, the trail eventually ushers you into a towering oak forest—an autumn hiker's dream that must explode into a breathtaking palette of golds and ambers come October. This lower leg of the route spans elevations from 35 meters up to 1,200 meters, laying the groundwork for the rugged ascent ahead.
As the Greek saying goes, during the months without an "r" in their name—the sweltering peak of summer—the extreme heat and humidity will drain your water bottle faster than you think. You’ll soon find yourself scouring the rocks for even a single drop of relief. Luckily, at an elevation of 1,100 meters near the Tsivdogianni stream, hope appears in the form of a tiny, secluded spring hidden among the crag. If you're fortunate, it will still be trickling cold mountain water—giving you the perfect spot to stop, catch your breath, and refill your bottle drop by drop.  |
| stream of tsivdigiannis |
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| looking for some drops of water |
At around 1,150 meters, the forest canopy begins to thin out. Turning right, you’ll follow a trail marked by two-toned ferns into the mountain’s middle zone (1,200–1,350m), where you encounter your first true rocky scrambles. As you gain altitude, vegetation completely disappears, giving way to pure, unyielding stone. Passing 1,450 meters, it's time to stow your trekking poles in your pack—you’ll need both hands free to navigate the exposed terrain. Welcome to the upper reaches of Mount Saos (1,400–1,614m), a high-alpine environment defined by steep saddles and powerful, sweeping updrafts. At 1,550 meters, you’ll arrive at a critical saddle junction: a large red arrow painted low on the rocks points right toward Chora, while the path to the summit breaks left for the final climb to Fengari.
From the junction onward, the trail weaves through narrow rocky passages where staying alert is essential—keep a sharp eye on the red markers to avoid wandering into dangerous dead ends. You’ll first scramble up a small sub-peak that closely resembles a roadside shrine (kikonisi), though it's actually just a natural stone formation. Threading your way through the final rocky gullies, you at last reach the 1,611-meter summit. For experienced mountaineers, the primary obstacle here isn't necessarily technical danger, but rather the ferocious, unpredictable gusts of wind that sweep across the exposed ridge.
As for the true highest peak—rising just three meters higher—it sits another 30 to 40 minutes further along the ridge. Facing time constraints, we chose to bypass it, preferring instead to soak in the incredible landscape unfolding below, particularly out toward the island's wild southern coast. The view from here is nothing short of a revelation, making an ascent of Samothrace’s peaks an absolute MUST for any adventure seeker.
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| Dimitris pointing out the harbor of Kamariotissa overthere |
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| after 6 hours we reached the summit |
On the way back down, we headed straight for the natural pools a"Paradise" for some much-needed muscle recovery. Severe lactic acid buildup made every movement in our quads a struggle, and cold-water therapy was absolute bliss. Even two days later, pressing on those sore muscles was a quiet reminder of what we'd accomplished. A sign at my gym reads "Go Hard or Go Home", reminding me that all truly beautiful things in life come with a touch of pain—from a romantic affair to a mountain as wild as Saos.
Chora, the Capital of the Island
Chora—the "capital" of Samothrace... what a familiar name! Almost every Greek island uses this name for its main village, which is why on many maps Chora is simply labeled as Samothrace. Perhaps that’s because island ports are for transient travelers—where you find colorful characters, bustling merchants, and passing opportunists. But it is in Chora where the island's true customs and heart reside. Nestled away from the coast, Chora is where you’ll meet authentic locals, wander through timeless paved alleyways, feel the genuine pulse of the island... and, if only for a moment, feel like a local yourself.
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in memory of the Holocaust (1821)
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Like most island capitals in Greece, Chora was built high in the hills, perched at an altitude of 220 meters. Life in the Aegean was once defined by the constant threat of piracy—a menace that plagued these waters well into the early 19th century. To protect themselves from raids, locals built their towns tucked away in rugged, hard-to-reach terrain, designing houses that naturally blended into the rocky landscape to remain hidden from sea level.
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| A 170-year-old Bakery |
Naturally, every island Chora needs its castle, and Samothrace is no exception. Standing guard above the village is the fortress of the Genoese Gattilusi family, who ruled the island as feudal lords in the 14th century and left behind impressive fortifications across its landscape. The crowning jewel among these is the castle tower dominating Upper Chora. Today, it stands not only as an important monument of medieval fortress architecture, but also as a serene gathering spot. In its stone courtyard, under the vast canopy of an ancient plane tree, visitors can pause, catch the breeze, and soak in sweeping views stretching out across the Thracian Sea.
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| the Gattulusi tower |
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| overlooking the Thracian Sea |
Wandering through the paved, narrow alleyways of Chora feels like stepping into another era. The traditional architecture is defined by stone-built, two-story houses capped with clay tile roofs and painted in vibrant, colorful hues. Wild fig trees spring up everywhere—appearing even more frequently than the iconic plane trees that shade the village square. Alongside them grow local peach trees bearing giarmadhes—the coveted traditional variety known for its fuzzy skin, intense aroma, and dripping sweet flavor.
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| The house of Maria Ververi, which she transformed into a museum... |
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| ...she tells us about her love affair with the German, Krause, and her life with him... |
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...she shows us the books she has published, and we buy one...
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...she gives us a tour of her home, showing island customs and traditions
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| ...meaningful words... |
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| traditional costumes |
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| her biography |
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| nice to meet you Maria |
Tucked away in Chora lies Stathmos, a charming traditional cafe (kafenio) where I tried the legendary local craft beer, Fonias "Killer", for the very first time! True to its name, a bottle will run you €5–€7—a premium price considering a full portion of food often costs less! But this is no ordinary lager: it's a rich, unpasteurized craft beer brewed with bold hops, Thracian malt, and Samothrace’s famous mountain water, which is widely considered among the purest in all of Greece.
The Legend of Fonias: Pale Ale vs. IPA: as it turns out, there are two distinct varieties of Fonias craft beer to discover: (a) The Pale Ale, a bottle-conditioned brew carrying a crisp, pronounced hop bitterness. The deeper and redder its hue, the higher its alcohol content. It was the one I tried at Cafe Stathmos—and it was exceptional and (b) The India Pale Ale (IPA), a top-fermented ale engineered to put hop flavor center stage, offering a complex profile for true craft enthusiasts. While waiting for the bus back to Therma in the village square, I picked up a flyer at the cafe and learned the story behind the IPA style. Despite the name, IPAs actually originated in British colonial times. Long before refrigeration, sailors making the long sea voyage to India needed a beer that wouldn't spoil. The secret? Balancing a heavy malt base with massive amounts of hops—a natural preservative—allowing the brew to stay fresh throughout the ocean journey.
Panagia Krimniotissa Chapel And Pachia Ammos Beach
The miracle story behind the icon feels a bit like the tall tales parents tell young kids to get them to finish their dinner, rather than a documented historical event! According to local legend, during the turbulent era of Byzantine Iconoclasm, shepherds on Samothrace discovered an icon of the Virgin Mary washed ashore on a nearby beach and sheltered it inside a cave. But the very next morning, the icon had vanished—only to reappear perched high above on the edge of a sheer cliff. After returning it to the cave, it mysteriously moved back to the precipice time and again, leading the islanders to build the chapel right where the icon chose to rest. It was named Panagia Krimniotissa ("Virgin Mary of the Cliff") precisely because of the dizzying, vertical rock face it sits upon. Standing up here, the surrounding geology is breathtaking. The dramatic landscape resembles a "Thracian Meteora" carved into the Rhodope mountain realm—complete with jagged, needle-like rock formations reminiscent of the Italian Dolomites that create a raw, wildly striking backdrop.
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| Panagia Krimniotissa: The Cliffside Chapel |
From a distance, the rock is genuinely impressive. Up close, the view is undoubtedly lovely, though perhaps not quite as mind-blowingly "magical" as the internet leads you to believe—travel blogs do have a habit of over-dramatizing every square inch of scenery! Tucked right at the entrance before the steps begin sits a lively little cafe that does a roaring trade with passing tourists. It’s a great spot to pause for a glass of ouzo and relaxed conversation while gazing out over the endless horizon. Naturally, when someone in our group brought up the legend—asking how exactly the locals managed to "find" the icon up here after hiding it in a cave—nobody could give us a straight answer. Some mysteries, it seems, are best left unsolved over a cold drink.
Leaving the chapel behind, we hopped back into our rental car and drove 3 to 5 kilometers further down the road toward the bay of Pachia Ammos. This is home to perhaps the only organized beach on the entire island. Unfortunately, the beach bar happens to be run by a "Neanderthal" with utterly atrocious manners—honestly, our single negative encounter during our entire stay on Samothrace! Manners aside, the swim itself was nothing short of superb: refreshing, crystal-clear blue waters stretching out into the bay. Best of all, an umbrella set with a drink came out to just €5... and as the local rule goes, if you weren't happy with it, you simply didn't have to pay!
The Sanctuary of the Great Gods: Winged Victory & Ancient Mysteries
...Sir, we have found a woman!... came the cry from a French worker back in 1863 during excavations on the island. Thanks to the sharp intellect of the French consul-archaeologist and the Ottoman sultans who made fortunes selling export licenses for ancient Greek treasures, this marvelous statue of unknown origin was shipped to Paris, where it remains on display at the Louvre.
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The "Winged Victory of Samothrace" as kept in a storeroom of the Archaeological Museum It is an exact replica of the original, crafted from the same
material (Parian marble) using 3D scanning of the original |
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The "Winged Victory of Samothrace" as displayed in the
courtyard of the Archaeological Museum
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| I am a model but not the original! |
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| The place where the statue of the "Winged Victory of Samothrace" was found |
Discovered at the Sanctuary of the Great Gods, it was named the "Winged Victory of Samothrace" and depicts Nike, the winged goddess of victory. Mounted on a base shaped like a ship's prow, the masterpiece was likely a votive offering celebrating a naval triumph in the early 2nd century BC. Standing before the original statue at the Louvre, you feel as though she is descending from the heavens to announce victory to the fleet. Her drapery appears to flutter in the Aegean breeze, while her missing arms feel implicitly raised in triumph. Carved from Parian marble, the masterpiece stands at a dramatic, larger-than-life scale.
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| The Sanctuary of the Great Gods with Ionic order columns |
Statues depicting Victory were widespread in antiquity, spanning various periods and scales. Another such figure was unearthed on the island in 1875 by the Austrian Archaeological Institute and, through a similar diplomatic exchange, made its way to Vienna, where it is now displayed at the Kunsthistorisches Museum. A third statue escaped this fate, remaining in Greece to be exhibited at the Archaeological Museum of Samothrace in Paleopolis. Though an American team led its excavation in 1949, Greece had already thrown off Ottoman rule and was finally able to safeguard its own cultural heritage.
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| Thracians and Greeks |
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| One of the many "Victory"-statues found during excavations |
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The Museum was designed by architect Stuart M. Shaw and
opened to the public in 1955
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Relief rosettes and bucrania resembling chrysanthemums,
symbol of an imperial throne
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| Nike ...at our every step! |
The Sanctuary of the Great Gods was dedicated to the Cabeiri, ancient fertility deities who protected sailors at sea and empowered warriors in battle. Based in modern-day Paleopolis, the sanctuary was home to the Samothracian Mysteries, secret rites held in equal esteem to the Eleusinian Mysteries. The sanctuary grew into one of the largest religious hubs of the ancient world. Though the exact dawn of these mysteries is lost to history, Herodotus suggested their origins dated back to the enigmatic Pelasgians.
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| An imagined staging of the (Kaveiria) Samothracian Mysteries |
Access to the innermost sanctuary was strictly forbidden to the uninitiated. Within these walls, scholars believe initiates underwent a symbolic death and rebirth—much like the Phoenix rising regenerated from its own ashes. Before entering, one had to undergo both physical purification using the island’s abundant natural springs and a form of spiritual confession. The Samothracian Mysteries were not merely about ritual worship; they offered a moral compass and a framework for living a virtuous life. But how do we piece this together without a single surviving holy text? Remarkably, our understanding relies entirely on clues left in stone and clay: motifs carved into statues and ceramic sherds etched with the single letter Θ (Theta), the shorthand symbol for the Great Gods.
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Ritual
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The Samothracian Mysteries (Καβείρια), much like those at Eleusis, shared a striking nocturnal tradition. Initiations took place under the cover of night, illuminated only by torches and oil lamps held by already initiated "Brothers"—a term of solidarity used then just as it is in modern fraternities and societies. The candidate was the guest of honor and, for that day alone, was seated upon a throne while the congregation danced around them in welcome (a ritual described by Plutarch). Afterward, the High Priest guided the initiate into the sacred adytum (inner sanctuary) to receive their first secret teachings. Upon completion, the new initiate was gifted an olive wreath and a purple sash—a talisman believed to protect them from peril, especially at sea. Unlike Eleusis, initiation here could occur at any time of year, though the peak season ran from April to September when the seas were calm and freshwater abundant. The cult of the Kabeiroi endured for centuries, holding its sacred rites until the late 4th century AD, when they faded away following the rise of the Roman Empire's new state religion—no prizes for guessing which one!
Tips2Go, Acknowledgments
To truly experience an island glowing with such a mystical aura, only one prerequisite matters: you have to feel 25 or younger. I mean your spirit, of course, not the date stamped on your ID card! Unless you're a mathematician or a tax inspector, numbers are completely irrelevant here. Even if you spend 7 to 10 days on the island, you won't cover it all—even the locals haven't discovered every hidden corner yet. So, let’s dive right into the absolute MUST-SEES!
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| the capital of the island |
The vathres (natural rock pools) are Samothrace’s ultimate trademark. Glance at a hiking map of the island, and you’ll notice it is practically overflowing with freshwater streams and mountain springs. Combined with the rugged, rocky terrain, these waters carve out breathtaking natural pools and waterfalls. Some are an easy stroll to reach, while others demand a proper hike and scrambling—but every single one is worth the effort!
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| Fonia's vathra |
Naturism... this is where Adam meets Eve, and they become a couple—both figuratively and quite literally. You arrive solo and leave with company. Whether it's the skinny-dipping or the mystical energy rising from the earth, there's no denying that everyone blends into One, continuing the vibes late into the night at the cozy local bars or at Saoki, the iconic beach bar in Therma. Naturism at the higher vathres doesn't bother a soul. If you hike up at the crack of dawn or very early in the morning (just as I did), the surreal atmosphere will leave you spellbound. You might stumble upon someone practicing yoga, a group softly chanting kirtan, or the resonant, hypnotic rhythms of Indian tabla drums echoing across the canyon.
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| Fonia's springs |
Mountaineering... Mount Athos and Mount Saos are the two mountain giants of Northeastern Greece. Both are demanding climbs that require hours of trekking to conquer. Mount Saos, however, with its rugged, rocky summit towering above 1,200 meters, fills every hiker with sheer awe. It exudes an enigmatic, almost mystical aura, while its dense lower flora—lush plane trees, wild ferns, and fragrant mountain herbs—provides a refreshing canopy on hot summer days.  |
| climbing up mount Saos |
Free Camping... while it isn't officially permitted, it operates on an unwritten 'anything goes' rule (at least for now). You can pitch your tent practically wherever you damn well please, and nobody bats an eye. Even the locals—who have every right to complain about sanitation concerns—seem largely indifferent. Unfortunately, this leads to vast fields turned into... well, open-air latrines, with discarded toilet paper strewn everywhere. True "free campers" know better: you carry a small trowel, dig a cat-hole, cover your waste, and pack out your toilet paper in a sealable bag. That’s how I learned to do it in the US, where Leave No Trace principles are standard practice. If you aren't prepared to handle the outdoors responsibly, you’re far better off just renting a room!
Mysticism... Even if you know nothing about the ancient Samothracian Mysteries, don't you dare skip a visit to the archaeological site of Paleopolis and its museum.
Tourism... The main village, Chora—officially named Samothrace—is the island’s capital (the entire island forms a single municipality) and has been officially declared a protected historic settlement. Built amphitheatrically into the mountainside, it is barely visible from the sea—a clever piece of defensive design meant to conceal it from Aegean pirates, just as Jules Verne vividly depicted in his novel The Archipelago on Fire. Winding stone alleys, steep stairways, medieval towers, and quaint museums lend an effortless, unpretentious charm to the town.
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| I lost 'track' of time here in Samothrace |
Food... simply exceptional. Wherever you pull up a chair, you're in for a treat: fresh sardines, rich chickpea stew, wild mountain greens, crisp salads, and above all, roasted goat cooked to absolute perfection—there’s truly no other word for it! In the village of Therma, make sure to stop by Felokas’ Bakery, where you can grab a generous slice of bougatsa and a great coffee for around €2—and you’ll walk away completely full. On the other hand, there are a few local tavernas I find somewhat overrated, like Psaras and Karydies. Psaras enforces a minimum spend of €20 per person, while Karydies (tucked away in the forest) often has long queues just to get a table. If you’re an alternative traveler looking to stretch that €20 over four days, stick to the budget-friendly local spots... you’ll thank me later!
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| The fries aren't pre-frozen... |
Drinking Water... While the island is overflowing with freshwater, do not drink directly from the streams or natural pools! You came here to unwind, not to catch dysentery. Stick strictly to natural mountain springs or village taps, where the water is pristine and superb—which also explains the quality of the local Fonias craft beer! During the peak summer months, the heat can be intense, and dehydration sets in fast. You'll need to sip water constantly while hiking or exploring. Always carry a reusable water canteen with you—at least 1.5 liters per person!
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| Therma village |
Swimming... Leave your swimsuit back at the tent and embrace the untamed freedom of skinny-dipping on secluded shores—just be mindful to keep a respectful distance from families with young children. If you prefer a traditional setup, Pachia Ammos is the island’s main organized beach, complete with a lively beach bar, restaurant, and sunbeds (€5 for a sunbed including a drink). On the opposite end of the spectrum is Kipi, a remote beach of dark stones and fine gravel that feels like a surreal lunar landscape. There are several other wild, isolated coves scattered around the island that are accessible only by boat.
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| Saoki beach for everyone |
Sunsets... I’ve got to be honest with you—this one’s a tough sell! You’re not in Santorini. Here, heavy coastal humidity often clouds the sky, making the sunsets rather average. Don't fall for the internet hype promising a breathtaking sunset from Profitis Ilias. In fact, on the ferry ride back, every passenger’s eyes were glued to the island itself as it receded into the distance—not on the sunset unfolding way out across the horizon!
Thermal Baths... Located in the village of Therma, the official baths are mostly closed (opening only on select days) due to strict EU regulations requiring an on-site general practitioner. However, right next door, you'll find two public stone basins filled with warm, soothing sulfur spring water (38°C)—more than enough for a relaxing soak! Scuba Diving & Boat Tours... I originally planned on trying them, but rough seas and a shifting itinerary got in the way. That said, if you're a diving enthusiast, online reports promise a wild underwater world: sharp rocky formations, hidden sea caves, imposing cliffs, and vibrant reefs, all paired with lazy relaxation back at Pachia Ammos
Car Rental... Check whether it makes financial sense to rent locally for €60–€70 a day. If that feels steep, consider bringing your own car on the ferry. Alternatively, if you only plan on taking a few trips, call Evdokia, who operates a reliable taxi service—the meter from Panagia Keramiotissa (or Chora) to Therma runs around €18. A word of warning: Always buckle up! Local traffic police actively enforce seatbelt laws, and you stand zero chance of talking your way out of a fine. Having your own wheels to explore the island is an absolute MUST. While public buses do exist, their schedules are far from convenient.
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thanks my fair ladies!
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Acknowledgments... This expedition to Samothrace was organized by the Crete Mountaineering Club of Heraklion (EOS Heraklion), led by Dimitris Sfyrakis—an experienced mountaineer renowned for his top-tier organization and unwavering determination to reach every summit. He guided our team flawlessly, especially throughout the long, grueling ascent up Mount Saos, even scouting out water sources where not a single drop seemed to exist. Beyond his expertise, his warmth and genuine camaraderie set the tone for the entire trip. ... Thank you, Dimitris!
Samothrace was a deeply pleasant surprise. Although I barely knew anyone when we set out, I quickly bonded with my fellow hikers—and a few of us became genuinely close friends, forming our own tight-knit little crew! I want to express my heartfelt thanks to every single one of them; I had an unforgettable time. I only hope my writing does justice to the incredible feelings this mystical island ignited in me.
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| many thanks to Dimitris |
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photo by Marie Dim
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Upon returning to Athens, complete chaos reigned at the airport—lost luggage, missed flights, missing people. Only now has the reality set in: Samothrace was a summer fling with an inevitable expiration date, much like those sweet summer romances that fade away on August 30th. And today, indeed, is August 30th 😥😥. As I drive down the Attiki Odos highway just before daybreak, the nostalgic lyrics of Pyx Lax echo in my ears...
.....πετάς τα ρούχα σου ψηλά
γυμνός μες τη χαρά σου
κρατάς τη λύπη σου μακριά
δε νιώθεις τίποτα
.....μια συνουσία μυστική
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